Does Portland need another natural wine bar? Yes, according to the team behind Daydream, which quietly opened in the former Bar Norman space on Southeast Clinton Street in August. At a time when much of the wine industry sees decreased consumption and sales, especially among young people, it’s hard not to respect the optimism. The impact has even been felt locally as Bar Norman and the compact inner eastside Grape Ape—natural wine bars that took a respectable but pricey approach to enticing hip young denizens with “natty” wines and chill vibes—put a cork in their businesses this year.
Doom and gloom aside, there are bright spots that transcend simply offering a decent glass pour list. Similar to the wine geek-meets-vinyl nerd bar HiFi in McMinnville, where the bartender throws down classic vinyl in between serving up glasses of pinot noir and riesling, Daydream seeks to transform the experience of sipping fermented grape juice into something more with an emphasis on music, community gathering, food, and wine alternatives like vermouth, sake, beer and non-alcoholic drinks.
Those who sipped wine at Bar Norman might not notice major changes in the airy space at first glance, but Daydream leans into a more laid-back bar setting with a touch of sophistication. New seating and warmer lighting feels accommodating for quiet conversations over a glass of chilled red and a soundtrack of soul music as much as it does for a lively DJ throwdown with classic funk and bubbles flowing. The loft area has been converted into an elevated DJ booth, and Daydream regularly features guests spinning vinyl and even the occasional live performance. It has plans to include a mixtape with its soon-to-be-launched monthly wine club subscription.
When it comes to wine, Colston occasionally features his own Colston Biblio label as well as Pacific Northwest wines from smaller producers like Shiba Wichern and Limited Addition, and multifruit co-fermentations from Art + Science. Mainly, Colston and the Daydream team are interested in showcasing wines from overlooked regions of Western Europe and the Mediterranean and deeply historical traditions in Eastern and Central Europe, which often pre-date the idea of the “Old World.” The goal is to strike a balance between discovery and approachability.
Wines are classified by colorful descriptors like “Juicy Boy” “Dinner Party” and “Lover’s Chardo,” and a “Lo-Ball” menu draws inspiration from cocktails with a handful of low-alcohol aromatized and fortified wines, plus an assortment of vermouths to explore.
Daydream also leans into Portland’s pop-up obsession with its food offerings, a partnership with Katrina Manaligod called Anino. Fasman calls it a departure from the more traditional “wine bar” food like tinned fish, cheese boards and hummus. Anino’s small menu often finds Manaligod “celebrating her Filipina heritage through the lens of playful bar food” according to Fasman. In the anything-goes world of modern wine culture, Daydream and Anino serve up pairings that read like a college stoner’s munchie bong dream, like a Hot Pocket ($8) with shishito, roasted corn and mozzarella, and a Thot Dog ($15) with oaxaca cheese and kimchi, alongside more sophisticated fare like Albacore Ceviche ($18) and specials like vegan curry and short ribs every Sunday.
Time will tell if Portland is thirsty for another natural wine bar, but Daydream’s approach reflects the experiential, discovery-seeking attitude of many millennials and Gen Zers these days. “Our philosophy is rooted in curiosity, discovery and wonder,” Fasman says. “From where we’re standing, the future looks bright.”
GO: Daydream, 2615 SE Clinton St., 971-373-8865, instagram.com/favoriteneighbors. 4–10 pm Thursday, 4–11 pm Friday–Saturday, 2–8 pm Sunday.