The Buzz Surrounding Street Disco’s Move From Pop-Up to Brick-and-Mortar Is Well Deserved

When popular pop-up Street Disco announced it would make the leap to a brick-and-mortar, Portland’s food scene started buzzing with the kind of excitement that usually precedes the highest of high-profile openings. That may have to do with the fact that Kyle Christy is at the helm. The chef established his reputation at Northeast Killingsworth Street restaurant Dame, then started a seafood-centric Street Disco predecessor called Gusto in 2019 with Dame compadre Jessie Manning.

With Street Disco, the two gained a loyal following eager to try their playful themed menus, which appeared at venues around Portland. The restaurant that resulted is owned by both, combining Christy’s adoration of seafood with what can be loosely interpreted as a highly elevated yet unpretentious, slightly nostalgic street food concept. And lucky for us, the buzz surrounding its opening is warranted.

For Foster-Powell denizens such as myself, the idea of a hip, more upscale dining option within walking distance is appealing. Nestled just off Southeast Foster Road next to a pot shop in the space formerly occupied by Char Pizza, Street Disco feels like a restaurant divided into two parts.

One side is hip and airy, with patrons sitting at cafe tables, perusing the extensive list of natural wines and munching on gourmet tinned fish and the occasional burger special. In contrast, the dining room is lined with plush green booths to complement the ‘70s-style wood paneling. This creates a cozy-in-winter feel you want in a neighborhood joint, and one can imagine, come summer, Street Disco will open its big glass doors to give the room a sunny, sidewalk bistro vibe. Nineties hip-hop wafts from the speakers, a soundtrack that’s fitting for both sides.

Having been open only since October, some hiccups are to be expected. On my first visit, my date and I were ushered into the main dining room 45 minutes late due to our reservation being “double booked.” Service from that point on was efficient, though a second visit saw the food coming out at a slower pace. At least the staff at Street Disco seemed aware of this and will hopefully tighten up their operation as they ease into a service flow.

Two things to know about the menu at Street Disco is that it changes frequently and nearly everything is sharable. During our two visits, there were several items that appeared both times, but the kitchen team had tweaked them to the point where they actually seemed new.

There are a handful of items one might consider appetizers, like the salt cod fritters ($13), fried to a golden crisp, which captured the essence of fish and chips in a bite that seemed to be a nod to Gusto. The kampachi crudo ($14) was a refreshing contrast, with diced radishes and Gordal olives forming a sort of tapenade that provided a textural balance to the melt-in-your-mouth fish.

We dipped into other starters on another visit: luscious bone marrow topped with tender slices of wagyu tataki ($18) and The Original Not Lobster Roll ($10). The latter was a very Northwest combination of Dungeness crab and bay shrimp served on a sweet, chewy milk bun.

Seafood is generally the star of the show at Street Disco, but it was well worth taking a detour from the ocean by ordering the grilled pork ribs ($18)—sure to become a sleeper hit—adorned with a barbecuelike fermented peach-and-honey sauce.

With our carnal desire for meat satiated, we turned our focus back to the seafood and dug into the whole grilled branzino ($31). Though certainly large enough for a one-person entrée, the white fish is best picked at by two or more diners. There was a certain joy that came from delicately pulling back the crispy skin to reveal a bundle of thyme that released a sauna’s amount of fragrant steam. Just keep in mind that the cumin-heavy mojo sauce works better on the side instead of poured over as recommended.

This dish was off the menu the next time we dined, and one can only hope it swims back in the future. But there were other standouts to enjoy. The seared octopus ($24) was perfectly tender, coiled around soft potatoes soaked in green harissa. It was also a thrill to watch the kitchen team cranking out homemade ricotta cavatelli for the braised lamb neck ($23), served almost stewlike.

It’s highly advisable to explore Street Disco’s creatively curated wine library, but the rotating cocktail menu also deserves attention. Malachi’s Maize (bourbon, Nixta corn liqueur, peach and orange; $14) was the clear winner on our first visit. The Geto Bird ($14) remained on the menu and for good reason: Its warming blend of rum, fall spices and pear brought a smile to my face.

Street Disco is a delightful addition to the bustling yet still low-key Foster-Powell neighborhood that already includes breweries, cocktail bars, and pizza spots. Chef Christy and his talented team have created a sophisticated yet approachable and fun dining destination that prides itself on crafting thoughtful dishes with exceptional ingredients that are seasonal and local. Every bite was enjoyable and many were even sensational. Given the frequency of the menu changes, it will be exciting to see how Street Disco finds its footing and evolves.

EAT: Street Disco, 4144A SE 60th Ave., street-disco.com. 5-10:30 pm Thursday-Monday.