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Certain key ingredients make a good Tex-Mex restaurant in Texas: continuously replenished chips and salsa, flowing margaritas (frozen and non-), sizzling fajitas, and enchiladas oozing with cheese hot enough to singe your esophagus. Velveeta-based queso must also be available and, most importantly, everything comes with flour tortillas. No corn, no exceptions!
The simple model of true Tex-Mex that people in the Lone Star State take for granted seems impossible to replicate anywhere else in the country. That is puzzling to this former Austinite, particularly when you consider the formulaic approach and basic ingredients used by most Tex-Mex establishments. Yet the rest of the continental U.S. seems unable to resist the urge to present their own take on it to the detriment of former or visiting Texan diners.
Occupying the former Tasty space in the ritzy Mercado Grove development in Lake Oswego since early spring, Toreados Tequila Bar & Kitchen aims to capture the spirit of Tex-Mex with a twist that includes Texas-style barbecue and some regional Mexican cuisine. This spin seems to be the work of ChefStable owner Kurt Huffman—the eatery is one of the newest in the restaurant group’s portfolio—and his love of chiles toreados, or blistered peppers, the business’s namesake dish that sets the stage for its mostly welcome divergence from the Tex-Mex blueprint.
If you’re planning a visit, I recommend catching Toreados’ daily happy hour (3:30-5:30 pm). This is your opportunity to sample a decent portion of the menu without breaking the bank. There is no good excuse to skip the queso ($7 happy hour, $9 regular menu). Served blanco-style (as opposed to bright orange) it brings to mind the dip at Austin’s legendary Kerbey Lane Cafe—especially since Toreados does it proper by bringing chips and salsa to your table as soon as you sit down.
Tacos ($6 à la carte during happy hour, $15 for two with rice and beans during dinner) are on the small side, but they’re packed with flavor and, thank the good Lord, served on flour tortillas. If Toreados went homemade instead of store bought, I would be there every week. Most of the available proteins also make an appearance on the fajita menu, or can be added to salads or the queso mac and cheese ($11). During one of my visits, the shrimp had a delightful grilled char yet was still tender—a texture complemented by crunchy jicama slaw and creamy cotija cheese.
The Toreados team goes off the Tex-Mex script by serving Texas-style barbecue with mixed results. The smoked brisket was excellent, even though it might have been a bit better with a firmer bark. Overall, the meat was not too fatty, and the whole slab was smoky enough to make even the biggest barbecue snob smile. Try it chopped in a taco or do it right by getting it served over a bed of sizzling veggies—in this form the beef simply falls apart; no knife needed.
My fellow Tex-Mex die-hards might crucify me for praising something that’s not traditional, but the smoked whole wings ($9 happy hour, $12 dinner) are easily one of the best items on the Toreados menu. A few different flavors are available, but I was blown away by the classic with a sweet and slightly spicy rub that, given a healthy nap in the smoker, practically candies the skin into a satisfying brittle.
Another smoked item, the grilled octopus ($28), had terrific flavor but, on one of my visits, developed a jerkylike chewiness that detracted from the overall dish. Fortunately, the plate came with those marquee chiles toreados. Their combination of honeyed sweetness, salt from soy sauce and slight spice elicited a kind of culinary pleasure that only comes from eating something so shockingly simple yet that tastes seemingly complex.
Another thing that sets Toreados apart from your typical Tex-Mex joints is a sophisticated cocktail list that includes a mix of classic and inventive drinks. The bar whips up a damn fine margarita ($11) that will transport you to a hot Texas patio with its perfect balance of sweet and tart flavors. The paloma ($11) is citrus-packed, fizzy and refreshing, as is the ranch water ($11). Two of my favorite drinks were the Oaxacan Negroni ($15), with an almost molelike undertone, and the aptly named mezcal drink ($15) which, as the menu suggests, “will make a believer out of anyone” not already in love with the smoky Mexican spirit.
One day we may get a Portland-area restaurant that truly nails the Tex-Mex concept, something reminiscent of legendary Texas joints like Lupe Tortilla, Ninfa’s and Polvos to name a few. Until then, Toreados will do just fine. The true Tex-Mex experience remains elusive here—so close, yet so far away—but if you order the right things at Toreados, your meal should almost transport you to that Lone Star State of mind.
EAT: Toreados Tequila Bar & Kitchen, 4055 Mercantile Drive, Suite 180, Lake Oswego, 503-305-5298, toreadoslo.com. 3:30-9 pm Monday-Friday, 11 am-9 pm Saturday-Sunday.