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Jim Dixon wrote about food for WW for more than 20 years, but these days most of his time is spent at his olive oil-focused specialty food business Wellspent Market. Jim’s always loved to eat, and he encourages his customers to cook by sending them recipes every week through his newsletter. We’re happy to have him back creating some special dishes just for WW readers.
Most Americans only know radicchio as the burgundy-colored leaves in an “Italian” bagged salad mix, and until they taste it, they usually think it’s red cabbage. Radicchio, a relative of Italian wild chicory, often packs a bitter punch. One bad experience can turn a diner away, and that’s a shame, because not all radicchio is bitter. For those varieties that are, there are tricks that can mellow out that flavor. Replicate Nostrana’s famous salad, for example, by soaking cut radicchio in ice water for an hour or two to reduce the bitterness before tossing a garlicky Caesar-like dressing.
The softball-sized, round purple heads you may find in grocery store produce departments are a variety called Chioggia. Most of it is grown in California, but the Pacific Northwest is home to dozens of small farmers growing a wide variety of the striking chicories, from the red-and-white-striped, football shaped Treviso to the purple-speckled, soft green leaves of Castelfranco. Since it’s a winter crop, farmers grow it to help them make through the lean months when their customers are getting tired of carrots and cabbage.
Radicchio varieties beyond Chioggia lie at the farmers market and a few of Portland’s better produce sections. Any of them will work in these fritters, but I usually get a pointy head of Treviso. Since the various types can differ in size, the recipe quantities are mostly suggestions. If the mixture seems dry, add an egg; if wet, more breadcrumbs. And fry a single test fritter first to see if it holds together as the egg cooks.
Radicchio Fritters
- 2-3 cups cooked and chopped radicchio*
- 2-3 eggs
- ½ cup bread crumbs
- 2-3 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon kosher-style sea salt
- Extra virgin olive oil for frying
*Cook the radicchio by cutting the head into quarters through the root end, leaving the core intact so the leaves stay together, and dropping the wedges into boiling water. Use tongs to lift them out after a minute or two, then drain and squeeze as much water out as possible before chopping into roughly ½-inch pieces.
Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. The mixture should hold together loosely. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat for a minute, then coat the bottom with a thin film of olive oil. Use two spoons to form roughly walnut-sized fritters, gently slide them into the oil, and gently flatten a little. Don’t disturb them until the bottoms are nicely browned, about 3-4 minutes, then flip and brown the other side. Cook as many as will fit into the pan without crowding; add more oil between batches if needed. They’re best served hot, but they do reheat nicely in a skillet.