Skip to main content
Little has changed in the decade-plus since President Obama visited Gateway Breakfast House (11411 NE Halsey St., 503-256-6280, gatewaybreakfasthouse.com) in 2012. According to Judy King—a lead hostess who’s worked at GBH since it first opened in 1995—that’s what makes it such a special place for regulars; she says she’s even seen marriage proposals take place in the restaurant. Regulars often compare GBH’s simple décor and wheelhouse of American classics to that of restaurants from their childhoods.
“We have a kids' menu with crayons, and this man who was nearly 60 told us how that reminded him of a restaurant from his childhood in 1958,” King says. “His sister calls us the next day and asks if we can give him a menu and crayons when he comes in next time, and we did. He didn’t know she called, but we gave it to him, and he starts tearing up and tells us how this was something he had as a kid. He colored it in, took it home, hung it up, and sent us a photo. We never told him his sister called; I had to keep a straight face.”
Then, she finishes slyly, “Only I can do that.”
King shared tips she’s picked up from GBH’s kitchen over the past 30 years, from even before owner Yujin Chang’s family bought the diner from its original cook in 2000. Some are common sense—use fresh ingredients whenever possible, for instance—but some of her secrets turn out to be revelatory. If you’ve ever wanted your breakfast to be good enough for a commander-in-chief, King offers the following sage advice:
Let Sizzling Hashbrowns Lie
A common misconception she encounters, King says, is that would-be chefs think they need to constantly stir their hashbrowns while they grill. Make sure there’s oil on whichever side is browning, she says, but let one side cook fully before flipping them over only once.
Don’t Microwave Leftover Bacon
Microwaves will overcook any bacon brought home from a diner. King says tossing strips on the stove or in the oven will deliver far better results, even for fans of scorched bacon.
Sausage Comes Before Gravy
King says she’s encountered people who make sausage along with gravy, but the real secret is to cook ground sausage (not sliced links) before the gravy gets going. She isn’t as sure when it comes to mushroom or other meatless gravies, but that segues into her next piece of advice…
Don’t Be Scared to Ask for What You Need
While GBH’s menu is scant on vegetarian and vegan options, King says any diner whose staff knows the menu well can throw together a satisfying meal without meat or animal byproducts. King recommends readers try pouring mushroom gravy over hashbrowns at home, or pair grilled mushrooms with avocado and tomatoes.