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There comes a time in every Oregonian’s journey through the winter season when they reach their limit. Maybe it’s the first time it rains for a week straight. Or when the sun starts setting before 5 pm. Or both. But don’t lose hope! The seasons will change, promise. And you can do wonders for your physical and mental health by taking a break in nature.
Luckily, it’s less expensive than you might think to get out of the house and into Oregon’s natural beauty for a few days. Between coastal cabins, high desert hideaways, alpine A-frames and former U.S. Forest Service lookouts sprinkled throughout the state, there are inexpensive lodgings galore. Don’t mind a bare-bones weekend? Even better. You’ll have scores of properties to choose from. So, grab some supplies and escape the wintertime gloom in a rustic cabin, whether it’s a forest treehouse, a snowy mountain abode, or an anglers’ sanctuary where you can practically cast a fishing line from the back porch.
Little Yew Lodge
Rhododendron, address provided once booked, airbnb.com.
This 1920s cottage in Rhododendron looks like it’s covered in timber polka dots, but that’s actually cordwood construction—the only cabin of its kind on Mount Hood (according to the owners, anyway). Inside, you’ll find exposed beams, a bedroom loft, the original stone fireplace, and an extensive record collection. There’s also a snazzy new bathroom with a soaking tub, quality cookware in the kitchen, and an espresso machine. A second neighboring structure has a bedroom and bathroom, essential if there’s more than one couple in your group. The location makes an ideal jumping-off point for wintertime activities on the mountain, and you can just as easily pop into town for supplies. However, if you simply spent the entire visit sitting around the fire pit listening to the sound of the river rushing by, we wouldn’t blame you.
U.S. Forest Service Cabins
Once a “job perk,” these cabins, houses and lookouts were constructed for rangers to use during the course of their Forest Service duties, which included everything from smoke detection and wildfire suppression to permit verification when encountering people in the backcountry. Most of the structures were built in the early 1900s—some by the Civilian Conservation Corps that was born from President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal.
Today, these cabins are available to rent now that there are more advanced ways to track fires, and the prices to reserve one for a few days feel closer to 1933 rates than those you’d find in 2023. When it comes to amenities, though, the options are representative of when the cabins were built. There’s not always running water or electricity. Some of them aren’t open during winter, and those that are tend to be accessible only by ski, snowshoe or snowmobile. That said, if you visit these structures knowing what you’re in for, they are once-in-a-lifetime camping experiences. Many of the properties book as soon as the slots are released online six months in advance, so plan accordingly.
Fivemile Butte Lookout, near Dufur, sits on a 40-foot-tall tower, offering stellar views of the surrounding forest of Doug fir, ponderosas and hemlocks. From Dec. 15 to March 15, visitors are advised to park at Billy Bob Sno-Park and make a 3-mile trek to the lookout since cars are prohibited without a permit. Once you’re there, you may need to use a rope pulley to raise your supplies to the lookout, but a cozy wood stove awaits at the top.
The Ochoco Ranger House, in the Ochoco National Forest, has it all in comparison, including electricity, flush toilets and a cook stove. The roads to access the house are even plowed in winter! It’s also close to Walton Sno-Park, which has cross-country skiing routes and more trails for snowmobiles than anywhere else in this forest.
Looking to explore the farthest edges of Oregon? The Fremont Congo Gulch Cabin is at an elevation of nearly 5,000 feet with a view of the Umatilla National Forest and the John Day North Fork Wilderness about 50 miles west of Baker City. Better for larger groups (there are four Forest Service cabins on site), this two-story dwelling has three bedrooms, electric lights, and a stove powered by heating oil, though keep in mind there is no water or indoor plumbing from October to May. You may need to access the site by snowmobile during that period; call the Forest Service’s North Fork John Day District to ask about road conditions.
Trillium Lake Basin Cabins
32798 E Mineral Creek Drive, Government Camp, trilliumlake.com.
All in on snowshoeing or cross-country skiing as part of your next Oregon winter adventure? This cabin, near Trillium Lake on the historic Barlow Trail, is for you. The two-story home has three bedrooms, a wood stove and electric heat, a kitchen equipped with a refrigerator and stove, as well as a 32-foot-tall wall of windows looking directly at Mount Hood. Well-maintained tracks for winter sports are just steps from the front door, which lead to Trillium Lake—during your visit it should be iced over. The average snow depth is 5 feet, though a snowpack as deep as 13 feet is not uncommon. Once you’re done with your outdoor recreation, warm back up inside the cabin’s detached cedar sauna that can comfortably fit six. Rolling in the snow after your sauna session is entirely optional but advised.
WanderingWoods A-Frame Cabin
Mount Hood Village, address provided once booked, airbnb.com.
A weekend in an A-frame near Mount Hood is a traditional Oregon experience for a reason—it showcases what the state is all about: connecting with nature with a minimal amount of interference. This simple yet sturdy structure has all the amenities you’d want for a comfortable getaway. There’s a wood stove for heat and a deck where you can gaze at the forest—or the snow, if your timing is right—with an adult beverage, as well as a fire pit for good times after the sun goes down. At more than 1,000 square feet, the space is best suited for smaller groups of two or four rather than a large crew. The Wi-Fi signal is strong for those who refuse to unplug to unwind, and you’ll find a fully stocked kitchen. If you don’t feel like cooking, however, it’s a short drive east to Welches or Rhododendron.
Renovated 1919 Cabin
Maupin, address provided once booked, airbnb.com.
Maupin is only a two-hour drive from Portland, but this 1919 vintage cabin is a world away in terms of vibe. Yes, there is taxidermy. There’s also a small stove for cooking and a patio out back covered with an overhead shade to keep you sheltered from the high-desert sun. The home has been renovated and now has a gas fireplace, a washer-dryer and other modern amenities. Another bonus: You’ll be staying on Maupin’s main drag within walking distance of a grocery store, a coffee shop, and the iconic Rainbow Tavern (purchased in 2022 by Mt. Hood Brewing). We recommend starting or ending the day with a visit to the Deschutes River, which runs through town, where you can attempt to catch dinner by fly fishing.
Treehouse Glamping Adventure
Sandy, address provided once booked, airbnb.com.
This cabin isn’t a metaphorical treehouse, it’s an actual one 30 feet up in the air. Overlooking Bull Run River Canyon about 10 minutes outside of Sandy, the place is off-grid, so no television or Wi-Fi, limited power provided by rechargeable batteries, and a compost toilet in an outhouse. Consider this simple living to help you commune with nature. That’s not to say creature comforts are totally absent. There’s a sweet little outdoor patio where you can enjoy a glass of wine and the view of the forest, a memory foam mattress, and headlamps for nighttime visits to the bathroom. What more could you need?
Beija Flor Cabin
Arch Cape, address provided once booked, airbnb.com.
Live a coastal midcentury modern fantasy in this Arch Cape cabin nestled between Cannon Beach and Manzanita. The beach, including tide pools, is a short walk away, which means the crash of ocean waves will be your soothing soundtrack as you drift off to sleep. While the outdoor shower might not be ideal for winter, there’s a legit—and capacious—soaking tub inside the cabin. Heated by a wood stove, things are rustic, indeed: The cabin is a snug 506 square feet. And it’s easy to unplug since there’s no Wi-Fi and limited cellphone reception. Serious cooks may want to bring their own tools, as the kitchen is charming looking but not big. Even with limited space, there’s still a sweet view of sunsets from the dining table.
Juniper Lookout
Grant County, address provided once booked, airbnb.com.
At the end of a gravel path, you’ll find this sweet country cabin about 10 minutes from “downtown” John Day in sparsely populated Grant County. After greeting the owners at their own house down the hill, you may not see any other humans until you gas up the car for the drive home. Sitting atop a ridge, this property boasts awesome views, fantastic stargazing, and lots of animal life. The practical yet cheerful interior is the perfect place to watch storms roll in. If you need more stimulation than that, the place has been stocked with board games and VHS tapes (the Wi-Fi also works great, don’t panic). Try the outdoor vintage clawfoot bathtub for some al fresco entertainment; the mule deer, which enjoy the scrub surrounding the cabin, may join you or just eye you warily. The cabin is also a solid home base for anyone planning a trip to the Painted Hills. The attraction’s Sheep Rock Unit, with the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center, is less than an hour away.
Oregon Winter is Willamette Week’s annual winter activity magazine. It is free and can be found all over Portland beginning Wednesday, December 6, 2023. Find your free copy at one of the locations noted here, before they all get picked up!