Ask any Oregon hiker worth their salt and they should be able to espouse all the virtues of Silver Falls State Park and its much-lauded Trail of Ten Falls. Any and all forms of praise heaped upon that hike and its many variants are completely valid. But it’s a big busy park, and if you’re willing to forgo the falling water, there are places where hikers can find proper solitude on a trail, a dog-friendly parcel, lodging options, and even a cozy cafe and grill with a fireplace.
The Smith Creek Village at Silver Falls State Park is home to all those, and this time of year it can be a winter wonderland. Because of its location in the Cascade foothills, Silver Falls is more susceptible to snowfall than the valley floor but not as inundated with the white stuff as say, Government Camp. So whether you’re the sort of winter hiker who prefers observing fallen vine maple leaves decaying to rice-paperlike consistency or the type seeking the deafening silence of a landscape covered with freshly fallen snow, this is a spot to keep on your weather app and pull the trigger accordingly.
The trail system around Smith Creek is expansive and runs through secondary forests as well as patches of dense old growth. Two easy hikes that provide bite-size samples of both begin at the Upper Smith Creek Trailhead.
For a longer hike (a 3-mile loop with 500 feet of elevation gain), begin walking along the old roadbed and keep going straight at a junction where the Smith Creek Trail leads to a traditional single-track hiking path on the right. (We’ll come back to that.) Continue along a pleasant path lined by old-growth trees. The trail ascends steadily but never aggressively into a mature secondary forest whose character and age seemingly shift with every subtle turn.
After 1.5-miles you’ll arrive at a well-signed junction and make a hard left onto the Buck Mountain Trail. Enjoy a similar steady descent for just over a half mile to a junction with the Cut Off Trail. Follow this route into a ravine of impressive bigleaf maples for 0.8 miles to another junction that leads to a bridged creek crossing and delivers you gracefully to the aptly named Big Leaf Coffeehouse & Grill. (You know what to do here.)
Once provisions have been consumed/imbibed, follow the paved path to the trailhead parking lot. (For an alternative hike, you could park at the restaurant and take the paved road to the trailhead.)
For a shorter hike (1-mile loop with negligible elevation gain) that stays within the ancient forest, begin at the Upper Smith Creek Trailhead, but this time take the almost immediate right at a signed junction onto the single-track section of the trail. The path ascends, descends and bends easily through a lush temperate rainforest of Douglas fir, bigleaf maple and hemlock. After 0.8 miles, you’ll arrive at a junction with a broad trail leading down to the right and back to the village. If you’re in the mood for more mileage, continue straight for another 0.6 miles to a junction with the 214 Trail before returning the way you came.
Distance: Numerous out-and-back or loop options range from 1 to 9 miles.
Difficulty: Depending on the route, ★ to ★★★ out of ★★★★
Distance from Portland: Approximately 58 miles
Directions: From Portland, take Interstate 5 south for 45 miles to Exit 253. Take Oregon Route 22 E for 7.5 miles to Exit 9. Continue onto Brownell Drive Southeast, which turns into Oregon Route 214 north. Drive another 12 miles to Silver Falls State Park and make a right, following signs to Smith Creek Village, and proceed for 2 miles. The described hikes begin at the Upper Smith Creek Trailhead.