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"Until last year we were in a garage," says the sprightly
woman pouring a flight of Enso wine. She means to elicit surprise. The
effect is muted since the cavernous warehouse is still, technically, a
garage with a polished cement floor and roller door. Enso (1416 SE Stark St., ensowinery.com) is
part of a newish crop of urban wineries buying grapes in the
hinterlands, then barreling and selling them here. Enso is comfortable
not trying too hard. There's a giant logo painted on the wall, assorted
pine furniture and Sufjan's deep cuts playing loudly from a pair of
tinny speakers. The open barrel room is brighter than the bar, an
interesting and pleasant effect. An electric fireplace is cute, but for
the orange extension cord running to it. The woman pouring the flight
($5) suggests it's "too cold" to drink white wine. Indeed, something's
amiss. We enjoyed the dry, leathery Mourvèdre better.
WWeek 2015