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Wong's King Seafood Restaurant

8733 SE Division St., 788-8883. Lunch, dinner and dim sum daily. $$-$$$ Moderate-Expensive.

On a lonely corner of Southeast Division Street, far, far away from our city center, there lives a restaurant called Wong's King Seafood. OK, so it's only as far as Southeast 87th Avenue, but damn if it isn't a hike for those more accustomed to filling up in the city. Thankfully, the food is well worth the gas. When you do sit down in a dining room that looks like an Asian casino in a strip mall, you will be well rewarded. Cold chicken feet, deep-fried intestine and duck tongue are all on the menu, but who wants chicken in a restaurant that has an entire menu section devoted to live lobster and crab? The sliced lobster in "Supreme Broth" is the ultimate in decadence: A lobster is selected from the nearby tank, chopped in half and brought to your table, where a broth and lobster chunks make a delicious, soul-healing soup. The rest of the lobster is cooked up any way you like it—we suggest salt-and-pepper style. Looking for something a little less extravagant? Wong's King also offers the best dim sum brunch to be found between San Francisco and Vancouver. (LS)

Signature Dish: Peking duck. The cute little guy gets rolled out and skinned—you eat the skin in little dumpling sandwiches while the rest of the duck gets chopped up and ready to serve—kinda like A Christmas Story .

Standouts: That lobster broth is so tasty we're convinced it'll cure bird flu.

Regrets: On slow nights, the overzealous staff and enormous dining room gives you the feeling that you're being…um…watched.

WWeek 2015

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