Haute-N-Ready: Mexicali Express

Growing up, I always thought of it in the same vein as Taco Bell. The prices remain similarly low—and I couldn’t tell you the difference in the ground beef—but the similarities end there. Mexicali Express is closer in feel to an actual taqueria with a drive thru…and a small section reserved for gaming machines. Sure, there are the standard hard tacos with ground beef, but there are things you’d never find at Taco Bell: chili verde burritos, lengua tacos, and perhaps most shocking of all, quesadillas with real cheese! 

Seeing as how this was a reintroduction to the place, I opted for the burrito suprema combo—burrito, mexicali fries and a fountain drink—at a reasonable $5.79. And, OK, fine, I ordered some “tacos mexicanos” ($1.65 a piece), too. 

Long and thin, the burrito suprema was serviceable, albeit less than filling. The ground beef and refried beans combined to form a mealy paste with an ever-so-slight crunch from the lettuce. But this particular burrito’s most important function was as a protein-and-carb-filled conduit for Mexicali Express’ house salsas.

Speaking of which, the mexicali fries are, well, fries, served in a place better able to serve them properly than a traditional burger or chicken joint. There is no ketchup to offend the sensibilities; there is only a salsa bar. A wonderful, wonderful salsa bar. You can put me on the record as saying Fire Sauce is the best thing to ever come out of Taco Bell, but it falls behind the roasted tomato salsa, hot taco and—new to me—habanero sauce. (The latter is exceptional on the $3.99 chorizo breakfast burrito...OK, fine, so maybe I returned to this old haunt a few times for this week’s column.)

Mexicali Express is still fast food, and it is important to remember that. If you made the long, arduous trek out to Beaverton in search of the best tacos you’ve ever had in your life, Gloria’s is just a block away. But it is very good fast food. Instead of wrapping a burrito in a nacho cheese-filled quesadilla or turning a waffle into a taco shell to pique your interest, Mexicali Express employs a simpler strategy: serve good food at a modest price.