La Taq

The unofficial waiting room for a table at neighboring Podnah's Pit, this Mexican cantina with some Texas kick is worth a longer visit if only to try some of Rodney Muirhead's brisket tucked into a taco or wrapped in an enchilada. That molasses-sweet meat at La Taq comes out of the same smoker before its gussied up with salsa verde, cilantro and onion, then folded into a tortilla ($3.75). Or try to keep toppings from flying all over your table when negotiating the puffy taco ($6), an "everything's bigger in the Lone Star State" sort of dish. Frying the masa gives the crispy shell a bee sting-swollen appearance, and biting into it results in an explosion of shredded lettuce and pico—but it's also kind of like a food confetti celebrating your order.

GO: 1625 NE Killingsworth St., 971-888-5687, lataqpdx.com, 5 pm-midnight nightly