Marukin Ramen

(Thomas Teal)
By Matthew Korfhage

Every broth ($11-$12) served at Marukin is excellent—spicy, miso, shio, whatever—and each bowl contains a stew of garnish, from deep-green spinach to kikurage mushrooms, bamboo shoots, a molten-centered egg and tender chashu pork. But it's all about that deep, hazy, porky tonkotsu shoyu bone broth. Light for its style, it remains buttery in its depths, a rich cradle for gently springy noodles. The broth feels impossible in both its delicacy and its depth, digging deep into the marrow of comfort.

GO: 609 SE Ankeny St., Suite A, 126 SW 2nd Ave., marukinramen.com, 11 am-9 pm and 11 am-10 pm daily

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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