Marukin Ramen

(Thomas Teal)
By Matthew Korfhage

Every broth ($11-$12) served at Marukin is excellent—spicy, miso, shio, whatever—and each bowl contains a stew of garnish, from deep-green spinach to kikurage mushrooms, bamboo shoots, a molten-centered egg and tender chashu pork. But it's all about that deep, hazy, porky tonkotsu shoyu bone broth. Light for its style, it remains buttery in its depths, a rich cradle for gently springy noodles. The broth feels impossible in both its delicacy and its depth, digging deep into the marrow of comfort.

GO: 609 SE Ankeny St., Suite A, 126 SW 2nd Ave., marukinramen.com, 11 am-9 pm and 11 am-10 pm daily

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