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Not many new restaurants create gridlock. When Super Deluxe opened this summer, cars were spilling out of the parking lot and onto Southeast 50th Avenue. During the first week of business, waits were rumored to run nearly an hour. The hype surrounding the business has neared In-N-Out proportions—the streamlined menu has drawn comparisons, but given the breakfast menu and chicken options, it has some Sonic in its DNA as well.
Two of the forces behind Little Big Burger, Matt Lynch and Micah Camden, are once again offering up seared beef between two pieces of bread—only this time, they're trying to elevate the quality of sandwich you'd expect to get handed to you while behind the wheel. Don't expect a thick slab for a patty like those you'd find at Little Big Burger. The single deluxe ($4.75) is thin, but that allows the edges to brown for a satisfying crunch. Drizzled in a combination of mayo and ketchup, it's reminiscent of an old-school Arctic Circle burger slathered in Original Fry Sauce. Texture is not lost on these sandwich artists as there's a generous layering of pickle, shredded onion and lettuce.
If you're looking for a salty side, skip the Yukon fries ($2.75), which are hit and miss when it comes to nailing the advertised truffle character. Instead, go for the chicken nuggets ($3.75-$4.50). Each morsel in the five-piece batch is hand-breaded, with onion and garlic powder, paprika, salt and pepper, creating a rough crust around the moist meat.
Even with a few kinks to be worked out, Super Deluxe reigns as the true burger king of Foster-Powell fast food—ignore the pretender to the crown across the street.
Pro tip: Line for drive-thru wrapped around the parking lot? Don't forget there is seating inside the former TacoTime. The building has been made over with bright, primary colors and a graphics motif that seems to pay homage to minimalist corporate designs from the '70s.
GO: 5000 SE Powell Blvd., eatsuperdeluxe.com, 7 am-11 pm daily