Where to Eat in Portland This Week

1. Sunshine Noodles

3560 N Mississippi Ave., 971-220-1997, sunshinenoodles.com. 11 am-3 pm Thursday-Saturday.

Sunshine Noodles is an avowedly irreverent, none too serious take on contemporary Cambodian food by Revelry vet Diane Lam. The corn pudding is a candidate for the city's best new dessert, but the lime pepper wings are the breakout hit—spicy and complex, they want for nothing except a beer, and perhaps a napkin.

2. Lazy Susan

7937 SE Stark St., 971-420-8913, lazysusanpdx.com. 4-9 pm Friday-Sunday.

At Lazy Susan, the dust—proverbial and literal—hadn't yet settled when Hat Yai owner Earl Ninsom and chef Andrew Mace realized things might not go as planned. The duo took over the former Country Cat space, hoping to convert it into a family-style restaurant that would become a culinary anchor for the neighborhood. COVID-19 threw those plans off course, but the eatery is finally open for outdoor dining, serving flaky dinner rolls, farm-fresh veggies and charcoal-grilled proteins.

3. Langbaan

6 SE 28th Ave., 971-344-2564, langbaanpdx.com. 3-9 pm Thursday-Sunday.

Speaking of Ninsom, his most elusive property is adjusting to the current reality by opening its patio and introducing a newer, snackier, dare we say funner menu, with Thai coconut-rice pancakes, cuttlefish salad, chilled curry noodles and alcoholic slushies. It used to be that you had to make a reservation a year in advance to get a table at Langbaan—now you can just walk up. Thank you, pandemic?

4. Street Disco

1305 SE 8th Ave., street-disco.com. 3-9 pm daily.

Summarized simply, Disco Snacks is a multifaceted snack bar concept at White Owl Social Club comprising a series of distinct ideas. That includes Taco Tuesdays, a public school cafeteria homage to tacos of the hard-shell variety, and pizza inspired by the suburban food court experience, currently available for preorder on Fridays and Saturdays. The stunner is the cheeseburger pie, a heavyweight concoction made of pickles, ketchup, onions and American cheese. There is nothing else quite like it in Portland.

foiled again: Montage’s tinfoil wrappings for leftovers were a signature feature.

5. Montage Ala Cart (at Hawthorne Asylum)

1080 SE Madison St. 11 am-8 pm daily.

Remember Montage? It's back—in cart form. The iconic late-night Cajun restaurant announced its closure at the end of June after 27 years on the Central Eastside. Almost as suddenly as it shut down, though, it's staging a comeback, moving into the Hawthorne Asylum food cart pod and offering a pared-down version of Montage's classic menu, featuring the jambalaya, the po'boy and the much-loved classic mac and cheese, plus variants—as well as the new, wildly tempting "nacho-ronies," which are basically macaroni-topped nachos. Sounds godlessly delicious!