Food Cart Review: Yolk

BR-EGG-FAST: Assembling a Brother.

Having survived four years of break-ins, vandalism and even hit-and-run collisions at his Woodstock neighborhood restaurant, Toast, Donald Kotler is in an expansionist mood. The first step in his campaign for total neighborhood domination is a food cart: Bright-yellow Yolk opened in September in the parking lot of the Joinery furniture workshop, alongside excellent established carts Artigiano and El Gallo. It's stiff competition, but Yolk is up to the challenge with a lineup of over-the-top breakfast sandwiches like the Brother, a small loaf of Little T pretzel bread stuffed with wilted arugula, maple-glazed pork belly and two fried eggs ($8). It's like a good bowl of ramen in sandwich form. Even better is the Glendale, a messy slop of onions, peppers, ground sausage, scrambled eggs and sharp cheese fried up and served in a baguette ($7)—essentially a sausage pizza for breakfast, without the embarrassment of calling Round Table at 10 am. For really adventurous eaters, Yolk offers "The Breakfast," a $10 mystery meal that boldly refuses to accommodate options, substitutions, allergies, diets or "texture issues." Recently, it was a plate of greens, pork belly, potatoes, carrots and three fried eggs, but it could be anything.

  1. Order this: The cheesy, spicy Glendale, $7. 
  2. Best deal: “The Sandwich,” a housemade English muffin with an egg, cheese, and ham or braised greens, $4.

EAT: Yolk, 4804 SE Woodstock Blvd., 568-0787. Breakfast and lunch 9 am-"2:30 pm-ish" Wednesday-Sunday. $.

WWeek 2015

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